Chanderi Sarees

Soft pastel shades characterize most Chanderi saris. Unlike the more flamboyant Kanjivaram saris of South India, or the Paithani saris of the West, most Chanderi saris display a remarkably subtle balance between the colours used on the body, and those on the borders. However, timeless combinations of bright colour borders on an off white base, or red on black, also exist. Interestingly, colour was introduced to Chanderi saris only fifty years ago. Until then, all Chanderi saris were woven in the natural white of cotton, and were then washed in saffron to give them their characteristic golden hue and fragrance. Some weavers also used natural dyes made from flowers, but usually on the woven product, not yarn. Today, Chanderi weavers prefer fast-acting chemical dyes. Traditionally, the quality of the gold thread used distinguished Chanderi saris from cheaper imitations. Most Chanderis have a rich gold border and two lines of gold on the pallu. Some have gold checks or little motifs (known as Butis) all over. Two unique methods are used to embellish Chanderi weaves – Minakari (inlay in the motifs) and Addedar Patela (jeweled cutwork) Unlike the geometrical motifs of Maheshwari weaves, Chanderi motifs are usually drawn from the earth and sky. Swans (hamsa), gold coins (asharfi), trees, fruits, flowers and heavenly bodies, all found their way into the idiom of motifs in Chanderi.

BUTTIS/ BUTTA "MOTIFS”

Since the inception of the Chanderi fabric and primarily ladies Sarees,the butiis on the Fabric are hand-woven and absolutely woven on Handloom. There is no use of any other process of manufacturing and it is Gold coated, Silver coated and as well as Copper coated. Now a days Tested Zari Butti are also common and in use. The Tested Zari is made with the use of Synthetic yarn. The Buttis are made by use of Needles. Number of Needles used depends upon the number of Buttis and its size. For each Butti/Butta separate Needles are used. All the weavers involved in this process are experts in it since they have been doing this for long. time. The most popular and traditional kind of Butti is Asharfi Butti, which is in shape of Asharfi (woven in pure gold and silver Zari and now a day it is also woven in Tested Zari). This kind of Butti was in use in past only by the Royal families because it is very expensive as genuine Gold and Silver is used. The Butti which is big is size is popularly called as Butta with all other specifications. More so and it is there ancestral business and trade.

The weavers involved in this process are long standing in trade and are well experienced. The Govt. from time to time also spends money and conduct workshops to train and educate them about the latest design and its quality control. The handmade Buttis are permanent in its nature and existence as well, interlaced and its original shape and structure always remain the same even after its long use. Whereas in comparison the Buttis created with the use of Power loom are not permanent and losses its shape and structure after some time. The thread used at Chanderi is of fine quality and even after long use its thread never comes out and its original shape and appearance is retained forever. It has no comparison anywhere else in the country or for that reasons in whole of the world.
It is easily distinguishable from the Buttis made outside Chanderi even with necked eyes because of its manner and Process of manufacture and in this manner it is exclusive and this itself is requisite ingredient for legal protection and for exclusive recognition. Initially the use of this quality and products has been a matter of use by the Royal families/ which for a long time is used by the common man.

TRANSPARECNY
The Chanderi Fabric is also well known for its transparency and sheer texture. The transparency is a unique feature, which is not commonly or found in any of the textile products all over the country. The transparency in Chanderi Fabric products is the consequence of Single Flature quality of yarn used. Flature yarn is the quality of yarn when the Glue of the raw yarn is not taken out. The none - degumming of the raw yearn gives shine and transparency to the finished fabric. This quality is not found in any other Fabric of the country and it is exclusive to the Chandari Fabric. The special transparent yarn is used both in warp and weft of different varieties and configurations. The transparent yarn is cotton and as well as silk also.
The silk yarn used of 20/21s, 2/100's and 16/18 denier. The term Denier connotes the fineness of yarn. The cotton uses in Chanderi Fabric is 2/120's, 2/100's (plain yarn) and 2/120 and 2/100 mercerized yarns. The yarn used in Chanderi fabric is of high quality and extra fine. Because of non-degumining of the raw yarn, the finished fabric produced is extremely transparent and which in consequence result into sheer texture.
This quality of the Chanderi Fabric is in existence since Moghul times and found mention if the Govt. gazetteer and various other history books written on Chanderi. This type of Fabric produced is family business in Chanderi and all the family members are involved in this process irrespective of caste and creed.

MANUFACTURING PROCESS

The Government gazetteer also mentions in detail about the Chanderi Fabric and its products, which has been used since the Moghul era. Even in the imperial Gazetteer of India the Chanderi silk Sarees are specifically mentioned. The copies of the Gazette maintained and issued by the Govt. of Madhya Pradesh and the copy of the relevant portion of the Imperial Gazetteer of India are annexed herewith and is marked as Amiextire D.

METHOD OF PRODUCTION

1.	Procurement of raw - material: the master weaver purchases the raw material from the yarn dealers who in turn get the silk from Karnataka. The silk yarn used is largely imported Chinese or Korean silk. The cotton yarn is procured from places like Coimbatore in southern India, and Jaipur and is usually pre-dyed. The yarn dealers of cotton also often get customized colors dyed as per the requirement of the master weaver. However the minimum quantity required for such dyeing is almost 25 kgs. or 10 hanks.
2.	The dyeing in Chanderi is undertaken mainly for the silk yarn and by dyers many of whom have been in this skill since long. The silk yarn dying process takes about 45 to 60 minutes depending on the color.
3.	3. After dyeing the yarn is loosened or wound on reels or / sw if tons: This is a prelude to the preparation of the warp and weft.
4.	For the weft the yarn is wound on pirns with the help of a charkha and this activity is usually performed by the members of weavers family. Warping is a specialized process, which is performed by the warpers. The warp yarns are wound on bobbins, which are arranged across a wooden frame called reel. The yarns from these reels pass through a reed to be wound around a vertical drum. A warper in good times would warp 4 or 5 warps for 12 sarees each.
5.	5. The next step is the task of passing the warp through the reed and the healds. The warp threads are then joined to the old war threads with a deft twist of the hand of the women folk. This process takes approx 3-4 days.
6.	Before the actual weaving begins the weaver sets the design of the border and the pallav. The respective ends of the design are tied to the a vertical harness called jala and the process is called jala tyeing. This process takes anywhere between 3-4 days depending on the complexity of the design. The figured effects are produced with the help of an extra weft and the number of till is (or the no of weft yarns will determine the time taken). That is higher the number more will be the time taken. However the time reduces if the number of ply in the weft yarn is more and consequently the weaver can move faster and cover more ground. However in this case the output is less fine. Similarly higher the reed count more is the production time.
7.	The weaving is performed by one or two very skilled weavers of the same family. The loon>6 being used are largely traditional pit looms with throw shuttle.
8.	The Chanderi fabric does not require any post loom process and is cut off the loom to be packed and sold. It is packed as per the requirement of the buyer and of the trader by way of customized packing methods.
9.	In addition to the above a separate map showing the process of manufacturing along with its Photographs showing the entire process of production and its various manners are annexed herewith and is marked as Annexure E.

Traders Data
The trades have been the main stay of marketing of Chanderi Fabric and its various products since 1920. They are knowingly Jains and Maheshwaris and belong to an affluent class of society. They have good marketing contacts, a fairly good sense of design innovation and a self built capital base. The traders have directed part of their chapter in up-gradation of looms and design and partially in sectors other than weaving.